A Guide to Pocket Carry

Friday, December 4, 2009

A Guide to Pocket Carry

Duane A. Daiker

(Thanks to USCCA)

Those who choose to carry a concealed firearm in their daily lives are constantly searching for the best way to carry. A shoulder holster may be impractical for your climate or your wardrobe. Wearing a concealed firearm inside the waistband can be uncomfortable, and may not work with your mode of dress all the time. For more and more concealed weapon permit holders, pocket carry is becoming their main method of concealment. Whether you use a front pocket, or a back pocket, or even a jacket pocket, pocket carry is an excellent way to ensure you have a gun when you need one.

Advantages of Pocket Carry

All concealed carry methods are a compromise of some sort. Pocket carry may not work for all people or all circumstances, but can provide a wealth of practical and tactical advantages:

Ease of Carry. Everyone has pockets. Carrying things in our pockets is a familiar regimen. Even with a bit of bulk in your pocket, there is usually no discomfort -- nothing impeding your arms (like a shoulder holster), nothing jabbing into your side (like an inside-the-waistband holster), and nothing jammed into your back (like a small-of-the-back holster). Pocket carry doesn't cause any significant discomfort, even when sitting for an extended period.

Few Clothing Restrictions. Although some pants will work better than others, most of what we wear has pockets. It doesn't matter whether you wear a "cover garment," or whether your shirt is tucked in or not.

Good Concealment. Pocket carry, with a good holster, generally provides very good concealment. Your gun won't "flash" if you have to bend over or reach up high. Any "printing" of the gun's shape can be diminished by an anti-print panel. Furthermore, people are used to seeing pockets stuffed with things--wallets, cell phones, PDAs and more. Most bulging pocket don't get a second look--the average person doesn't look for a gun in your pocket because that's not how people on TV carry guns.

Casual "Ready" Access. Although pocket holsters may not be the fastest draw, pocket carry does permit you to have a full firing grip, and be prepared to draw the weapon, while still maintaining a non-threatening posture--your hand in your pocket. By contrast, if you are reaching back under your shirt to your holster positioned at 4:00 -- everyone knows what that means -- and it can escalate the situation and destroy the element of surprise.

Affordability. Although the price of your holster shouldn't be the determinative factor in how you carry, a good quality pocket holster can cost about half or less of the price of a quality inside-the-waistband, belt or shoulder holster.

Disadvantages of Pocket Carry

As always, there are bad points with the good. Each person needs to decide how these factors balance out for them, but for many, the benefits outweigh the drawbacks.

Speed of the Draw. Drawing from a pocket holster may not be as fast as other methods of carry. The hand has to enter the pocket and seek a proper grip. Care must be taken that the draw separates the gun from the holster. Nonetheless, with the right combination of equipment, and a proper amount of practice, draw time is respectable and probably better than other methods of deep concealment.

Restrictions on Gun Size. Although pockets vary a lot in size, there are practical limitations on the size of a gun that can be pocketed. A full-size 1911 can be concealed inside the waistband, but not in the pocket. However, many very respectable defensive handguns will fit in your pocket.

Inability to Access the Gun with the Weak Hand. At least with front pocket carry, access to the gun with the weak hand is extremely difficult, if not impossible. If using rear pocket carry, weak hand access may be possible, but is awkward.

Gear for Pocket Carry

Once you decide to pocket carry, you need to give some thought to your equipment.

Choosing the Right Firearm.

The first consideration is your firearm. It will be no surprise that the best guns for pocket carry are those that are small in size and light in weight. The very best examples of these types of guns are: the Kel-Tec P-32 (.32 ACP) and P-3AT (.380 ACP) and the North American Arms mini-revolvers (.22 Short, Long Rifle and Magnum). Nearly anyone can pocket carry one of these if they have a pocket!

The next best guns are those that are still small, although heavier in weight. Some examples are the North American Arms Guardians (.32 ACP, .380 ACP), the Seecamps (.32 ACP, .380 ACP), the lightweight Smith & Wesson J-frame and Taurus small frame revolvers (.22 Long Rifle and Magnum, .32 H&R Magnum, 9mm, .38 Special, .357 Magnum), and the Kahr PM and MK pistols (9mm and .40).

Finally, if you have large enough pockets and a good belt, you can carry "sub-compact" sized guns with plenty of firepower, like the "baby Glock" sub-compacts (9mm, .40, .357 SIG), Springfield XD compacts (9mm, .40), Kel-Tec P-11 (9mm), Taurus Millennium (9mm, .40), and even some of the smallest 1911 micro-compacts.

Choosing the Right Pocket Holster.

Pocket holsters come in a wide array of designs and materials. The ultimate purpose of the holster is to stabilize the gun in the proper position for the draw and cover the trigger for safety. There are two basic styles: front pocket and rear pocket. A front pocket holster holds the gun upright, covers the trigger guard, and provides sufficient width to stabilize the gun in the pocket. A rear pocket holster also adds a smooth "anti-print panel" as large as the dimensions of the gun, so that only a smooth square shape is visible on the outside--much like a wallet or PDA. This is called a rear pocket design because it is more often needed when carrying in the rear pocket since a rear pocket is generally drawn more tight, as opposed to a front pocket which is usually looser. Some people will use a rear pocket type holster with an anti-print panel in a front pocket to ensure there is no printing. A few holster makers offer models with a removable anti-print panel, giving the user the benefit of both styles in one holster. Front pocket style holsters are generally ambidextrous, but rear pocket designs are made for a particular "handedness" since the anti-print panel must be on the "outside" of the gun.

There are some variations of the rear pocket holster known as "wallet holsters." Federal law regulates wallet holsters that permit the gun to be fired while still in the holster. The typical wallet holster that covers the trigger, however, is perfectly legal. Wallet holsters can provide more concealment, but are often much slower on the draw--particularly if the wallet has to be removed from the pocket to effect the draw. Use some common sense if choosing this method of carry, and don't carry your credit cards or ID or CWP in a wallet holster that will require you to expose your firearm to make a purchase in a store or identify yourself to a law enforcement officer.

Some front and back pocket holsters will also accommodate a spare magazine for semi-automatic pistols. These holsters usually use the space under the grip to store the extra mag. This type of set-up is not ideal since the spare mag will be in a strong side pocket and require some shifting of the gun to accomplish the reload. However, these holsters do give you the benefit of a reload in nearly the same amount of space as the gun itself.

Pocket holsters can be made out of leather or synthetic materials. Most synthetics, like ballistic nylon or vinyl, are significantly cheaper than leather, and are not form-fit to particular guns, making them more versatile for use with multiple guns. Some synthetic holsters are designed to grip or "stick" to the inside of the pocket.

Recently some pocket holster makers have started to use kydex, a hard form-fit plastic material. Kydex holsters are very rigid and usually have excellent gun retention. Kydex holsters generally have very little flex, and don't conform to one's body or pocket.

For many people however, a holster has to be crafted from leather. Leather certainly has the most aesthetic appeal--which may or may not be important for a holster that spends most of its time in your pocket. But, leather is a very practical material for holster use, and has been for centuries. Leather provides good stiffness, and can be made in varying degrees of gun retention. Leather wears well, and generally conforms to the user's body shape over time.

Ultimately, the choice of your holster style and material is a matter of personal preference. The gun you want to carry, the pocket you want to use, and the clothes you wear, are all necessary considerations in choosing a pocket holster or holsters. Try as many styles as you can, and look for reputable retailers/manufacturers that will allow you to return the holster for a refund if it doesn't work for you.

Tips for Pocket Carry

Once you have selected your gun and chosen a holster, give some thought to your carry routine. A few things to consider once you have made your decision to pocket carry:

Carry Safe -- Always pocket carry in a good quality holster, with the trigger covered. A proper holster keeps the gun upright and keeps everything out of the trigger guard. Additionally, you should never carry anything else in the pocket with your gun. Keeping the pocket empty further prevents any inadvertent contact with the trigger (by keys, or a knife, or whatever may be bouncing around in your pockets), and also helps insure a smooth and unimpeded draw when necessary.

Carry Consistently -- One excellent way to be prepared for a quick reaction under stress is to carry your firearm in the same location at all times. Try and pick a pocket that works for you, and use that pocket whenever possible. You don't want to have to locate the gun if you need it in a hurry.

Carry a Reload -- Pocket carry often means using a gun that is somewhat of a compromise in size and power. Smaller caliber guns are further justification for carrying a reload. Some pocket holsters are equipped with a holder for an extra magazine. If not, you can purchase magazine or speed loader or speed strip cases separately. Ideally your reload should be in a pocket on the same side as your loading hand--usually strong side for a revolver or weak side for a semi-automatic.

Keep the Gun Clean -- Guns carried in your pocket tend to collect lint. Believe it or not, pockets are dusty places. Put your gun on a regular schedule (at least once a month) to field-strip, clean out the lint, check for barrel obstructions, and rotate your carry ammo.

Conclusion

Pocket carry can be an excellent alternative for the armed citizen. Some very respectable-sized guns can be carried in a way that is very comfortable, very natural, and very well-concealed. A small investment in a good quality pocket holster, and a little bit of thought and practice, and you can be well-protected wherever you go.

Internet Resources for Pocket Holsters

www.DesantisHolster.com www.Fist-Inc.com www.GrahamHolsters.com www.HedleyHolsters.com www.HighNoonHolsters.com www.KDHolsters.com www.KramerLeather.com www.StellarRigs.com www.Uncle-Mikes.com

About the Author

Duane A. Daiker is a founder of K&D Holsters. Duane shoots regularly in club IPSC matches and enjoys writing and researching on concealed carry issues.

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REMINGTON SHOTGUNS & SHOTSHELLS

INTRODUCTION

As you might imagine, we get a lot of questions about shotgunning here at Remington. Hunters want to know if they can shoot 2-3/4" shells in their 3"-chambered gun;what choke works best on late season pheasants; how steel shot compares to lead shot; or what the heck “dram equivalent” means? The list goes on and on. So, in response, we thought we’d take some of the most often-asked questions and create a concise, easy-to-understand reference that you can use whenever you need it. And here it is: The Remington Guide to Shotgun Use. If you’re just getting started with a shotgun, it will provide a wealth of information and probably answer just about every question you can dream up. If you’re an experienced shotgunner, you just might find a few bits of information that can make you even more knowledgeable.

CLICK HERE TO READ ENTIRE GUIDE

HOME DEFENSE - A Handgun?

By Kathy Jackson

Conventional wisdom says a 12-gauge shotgun is best for home defense. I disagree with this conventional wisdom. To my way of thinking, the best gun for home defense is (drumroll please) ... the gun you can get to in a hurry and use efficiently.

Whether or not that's a shotgun, a rifle, or a handgun depends entirely upon you and your circumstances. But there are some strong reasons to consider the handgun as a good tool for a home defense gun.

A handgun is easily transported around the house, invisible to friends and casual callers but still within your direct control at all times. It is easy to answer the doorbell armed with a handgun, without anyone being the wiser. The handgun can even be drawn, discreetly concealed behind one leg as you open the door. Unlike a long gun, a handgun can always be available for instant use without unnecessarily threatening legitimate callers.

Handguns are also most easily kept accessible to adults but out of the hands of small children, more so than shotguns and rifles. As I've written elsewhere, when our children were very small, I soon began to develop a well-earned skepticism about my ability to know what the little darlings were up to in the next room. The kids, bless their active little hearts, gave me more than a few exciting little lessons about why I should not trust "child-proof" locks, or (worse) simply rely on their good natures to stay out of trouble. And the day I found a two-year-old sitting on top of my refrigerator, I realized that putting things "up high where the kids can't get it" was just a sick little joke.

My harrowing parenting experiences soon taught me that if I wanted the kids to stay out of something, I should not rely on anything less than a lock designed to keep adultsout of that thing. A gun locked inside a sturdy safe would frustrate an adult thief, and so I could also trust the lock on the gun safe to keep my children out. But a gun balanced on the top shelf of the closet, hidden between the mattresses of the bed, or leaned casually against a wall in an off-limits bedroom would be just as easily accessible to a determined child as to an adult thief. If the gun was out of my sight, it had to be locked up.

With children in the home, the gun that is out of adult sight absolutely has to be locked up. But it is really a lot slower and less certain to get at the gun in a hurry if you have to force your terrified brain to remember a combination, or persuade your trembling fingers not to drop the keys or fumble them. When faced with an immediate and deadly danger, even split seconds count.

Keeping the home defense gun out of my children's hands was problem one. Problem two, of course, was being sure I myself could get to the gun quickly enough if the unthinkable happened. I kept thinking about this second problem, and the more I thought about it, the less happy I was.

Experts generally agree that the best plan for a home defense situation is to get yourself and your family behind a single locked door, such as in the master bedroom or some other "safe room." Then you can hunker down behind some large piece of furniture and await events with gun in hand. If the police arrive first, they can deal with the intruder for you. If they don't, you can protect yourself until they do arrive.

So it did seem to me that the sensible place to store my home defense shotgun, if I got one, was behind a good lock somewhere in my bedroom. Maybe it would be out of sight too, but definitely locked up where the kids could not get it. The inherent slowness of a lock worried me, but once I got the gun unlocked, it would be available if I awakened to the sound of a home intruder.

But what if I wasn't in my bedroom when an intruder entered? What if I was, instead, in the front room with the children? Would I leave my children in the same room as the intruder in order to go fetch the long gun from my bedroom? What if, as soon as I bolted for the firearm, the intruder picked up one of my children and simply ... left? Perish the thought!

I found myself thinking, There has to be a better way.

There was. Rather than struggling for ways to store and then to quickly release a long gun locked up in some out-of-the-way location at the back of the house, I could instead keep an easily accessible handgun in a holster on my body when I was at home. That solved both problems.

First, while I might not know what my active little sweethearts were up to in the back room when the house went suspiciously quiet, I would always know whether or not their little fingers were prying the gun out of the holster on my hip. In this way, the loaded and easily accessible handgun on my hip was actually more secure than the "securely locked" long gun in another room.

Second, with the gun on my belt (or in a fanny pack) at all times, there could be no question of having to abandon the children to the tender mercies of an intruder while I ran to fetch a gun. The gun would be with me and instantly available.

Sleeping

At this point, some of my readers are probably wondering how in the world I keep a handgun on my body when I sleep. I don't, of course.

At night, I habitually lock my bedroom door. I have done this ever since my children were very small. We used to have a row of baby monitors, one for each of the kids' rooms and for the living room, lined up on my dresser at night. If one of the kids awakened in the night, I would know it -- and I would know it before the adorable munchkin dropped a full cup of juice on my face as I slept, or vomited onto my pillow just as I opened my eyes. ¹

Behind my locked bedroom door, the gun is secured in a fanny pack placed inside an open safe. Inside the fanny pack, there's a flashlight, a charging cell phone, and a spare magazine with extra ammunition -- any of which I might need in a hurry if an intruder is in our home.

If something awakens me in the night, I can quickly pull the fanny pack on over my robe. Looks goofy, but it works. If I don't want to take the gun with me, I simply swing the safe door shut and lock it before unlocking my bedroom door.

Tactical Stuff

During an emergency, a handgun can be carried in one hand, and can instantly be deployed with one hand. This emphasis on one-handed use might sound a bit silly to someone who does not expect to get injured during a crisis. Why would you need a gun which can easily be fired with one hand?

An injury to one hand or the other really is not outside the realm of possibility. But even if we set that aside and do not consider it in our planning, you may very well need one hand free to do things like open or close bedroom doors, tote the phone, keep a tight hold on a child's hand, or carry a baby across the hall to the safe room. Any or all of these things may need to be done during a home invasion, and few of them can be done well (or at all) while carrying a long gun.

A handgun is also more easily used in tight quarters than a long gun is. If an intruder rushes you in the hallway, you may not have room to bring the long gun to bear before he is on you. But the handgun can be fired while it is very, very close to the body, and needs very little room to use.

Whether you decide to use a long gun or a handgun for home defense, it is really a good idea to get some practice in close-quarters work. That means learning how to defend the gun from a sudden and unexpected grab, and also how to get the gun away from an opponent who has already gotten his hands on it. Which is easier to defend against a grab, a long gun or a handgun? That all depends. My personal experience has been that it is easier to prevent a handgun from getting grabbed in the first place, but if there's room to work, a long gun provides a lot of wonderful leverage to help you defeat the grab. Neither defense is instinctively natural, and both have to be learned from someone who knows the secrets.

It is generally a bad idea to move through the home when intruders are present. As mentioned above, experts strongly recommend you just hunker down in a safe room with your family rather than wandering around looking for someone to kill you. But realistically, this hunkering-down is not always immediately possible. You might need to grab a young child and bodily move her to the safe room with you, for example.

If you do need to move through the home with gun in hand, handguns are generally easier to deal with while moving around corners and in tight spaces. Remember the intruder could be hiding anywhwere, and may be waiting for the opportunity to grab you or the gun. Even people who are highly trained sometimes have a hard time moving around corners with a long gun, without allowing the barrel of the long gun to precede them around the corner. This is less likely to happen with a handgun.

Other Considerations

Money was an issue too. I'll admit that right up front. An important budget item to consider for any defensive weapon is training. I trust my handgun because I have trained extensively with it. I know how to load it and unload it. I know how to shoot it accurately, how to clear jams, how to reload it, how to fire accurately while walking, running, moving, hiding behind cover. I learned all those things in classes where talented (and stubborn) instructors taught me the most efficient ways to do them. And I have practiced with the handgun so much that it feels very nearly like an extension of my hand when I am holding it.

Could I get all that training and do all that practice with a long gun? Of course I could! But I already had the handgun, and was already getting handgun training. Although from the size of this website, you might think I'm a little obsessive about firearms, the truth is that I have a whole lot of other things to do with my time and money. Learning a new firearm as well as I already knew my handgun, would have literally doubled the amount of time and money I spent on training. For me, given my budget and time constraints, it just made more sense to focus all my training time and training money into learning one system really really well.

If you are a concealed carry permit holder, you probably consider the handgun an acceptable defensive choice while you are out and about during the day. All other things being equal, it will be less expensive and simpler to just use that same defensive firearm at home at night, too. The handgun might produce less overall power than the shotgun or the rifle, but it is no less effective at home than it is when you are out and about. And you trust it with your life when you are out and about.

But if carrying a handgun at home seems too much of a hassle to you, and if you do not have small children to complicate the issue, or if you are able to secure a long gun in such a way that you are confident you could get to it in a hurry, then a shotgun or carbine may indeed be the best choice for your home defense.

Reasons to Avoid a Long Gun

Rifles and shotguns do have a lot going for them: power, ease of aim, and the intimidation factor. Shotguns offer another important benefit, which is the huge versatility of ammunition choices. But long guns are also bulky, do not lend themselves to being discreetly carried to the door when someone knocks after dark, and are not easily kept quickly accessible to responsible adults while safely secured from children and the clueless. They can't get dropped into a fanny pack and it's difficult (not impossible with adequate training) to operate a long gun one-handed. These drawbacks are worth taking into account too.

The myths about a shotgun not needing to be aimed, or about the mere sound of it driving intruders off, are just that: myths. Don't bet your life on those! But like all myths, both of these have a small germ of truth hidden inside them: a long gun is easier to aim than a handgun, and shotguns are powerful enough that a marginal hit may be enough to do the job anyway.

As for the sound being enough to drive an intruder away, if you have not squarely faced and accepted the notion of killing someone else to defend your own life, a firearm -- any firearm! -- is nothing but a dangerous nuisance. If that's a factor for you, you need to get your own ethical/moral/religious issues worked out before you arm yourself with a deadly weapon.

Conclusion

The best gun for self-defense is the one you can get to in a hurry and use efficiently. For me, that was a handgun. For you, it might be something else.

Whatever you choose, take careful thought to how you will safely secure the firearm. Purchase appropriate accessories for it. And get training in how to use it effectively.

TIPS & TRICKS

Give your magazine springs a break now and again by rotating the magazines and ammo.

(Photo Tim Dees)

Rotating

You should have enough magazines on hand to rotate ammo on a one or two week basis to give the springs in the magazine a rest break. Failure to do so will result in feeding failures.

When the magazine springs for your firearms give up the ghost, don't throw that magazine away. Brownells sells replacement magazine springs and keeps your costs down for maintaining your firearm. There are many other reputable gun accessory vendors that can supply these and other items to keep you ready for the street.

Is It Empty?

By Kathy Jackson

you pick up a handgun, you should always check by both sight and feel to be sure that it is not loaded. Here's how to do this, and why it is necessary.

Semi-automatics: Remove the magazine. Then lock the slide open and visually look in the chamber. Poke a finger into the magazine well to be sure it is empty. Then run the tip of your pinky finger into the chamber to be sure that there's a hole in there rather than a live round. Look again before you close the slide.

Revolvers: Roll the cylinder open and visually count the chamber holes. Then run your finger over the holes and count them again by feel. Visually count the holes again before you close the cylinder.

To a newcomer, using your fingertips as well as your eyeballs to be certain the gun is unloaded may sound a bit obsessive. But it's really not obsessive. It is simply a good safety habit.

In the pictures below, I've unloaded a revolver for you to look at. You should just glance at this first picture. The gun is unloaded, right?

Visual illustration of how an 'unloaded' revolver can still be loaded. Always, always, always double check by counting the holes.

Use the tip of your finger to
count the holes. Eyeballs can lie!

For the record, the photos don't cheat. The gun in the second photo is in the exact same condition as it was in the first photo -- loaded! The only difference is that the cylinder was not rolled out all the way in the first photo, which is a really easy mistake to make if you're just glancing at it for a quick check when you already "know" it's unloaded.

This is why we check twice with our eyes, and touch the holes. When distracted or under stress, it is surprisingly easy to miss seeing things we really didn't expect to see anyway. And it is just as easy -- or easier -- to do the same with a semi-auto, and miss seeing the round in the chamber or the magazine in the butt of the gun.

So use your hands as well as your eyeballs to check, and never take anything for granted.

10% of the Gun Owning Population Are Cross Dominant But Many Don’t Know It

Cross dominance is simply the situation that occurs when your dominant eye and dominant hand are not on the same side of your body.

In other words, your are right handed, but left eye dominant, or left handed and right eye dominant.

Cross dominance occurs in about 10% of the gun owning population and we see it in about 10% of the tens of thousands of student who train at Front Sight each year.

Once diagnosed, it is very easy to work around with proper training techniques. Unfortunately, many people who are cross dominant, have never been made aware of it and get frustrated in their inability to shoot accurately.

Here is an easy diagnostic test to determine your dominant eye and what to do if you are among the 10% who are cross dominant...

You already know your dominant hand. It is the one you write with, throw a ball with, hit a baseball with, etc.

Here is how to determine y our dominant eye:
Take an 8 x 11 inch sheet of paper and in the center of the paper, use a pencil to punch a hole in the paper.
Hold the paper with both hands at arms length.
Keeping both eyes open, look through the small hole as you slowly bring the paper back to your face.
When the paper touches your face, the hole will be centered over your dominant eye.
If your dominant eye is the same as your dominant hand, then good for you. You are normal and unremarkable! (That’s a joke.)  You are like 90% of the other gun owners in this country.
However, if your dominant eye is opposite of your dominant hand, then you are Cross Dominant and will need to make some decisions before embarking on serious training.
No need to worry. You can still train to the highest levels in the world.  I know. I’m a Four Weapons Combat Master and I am cross dominant.  I am left handed and have a dominant right eye.
So here is what you do:
With a long gun:  Shoot with your dominant hand keeping both eyes open until that fraction of a second when you need to shift the focus on your eye to the front sight, then simply close your dominant eye. Your non-dominant eye is now the dominant image forcing your brain to use the non-dominant eye to focus on the front sight.
With a handgun: You can use the same technique or simply tip your head a bit and focus on the front sight with your dominant eye.Those two techniques above=2 0are the easiest fix for Cross Dominance.

SHOOTING - A GREAT HOBBY

Friday, December 4, 2009